Bez Ambar's Patented Design: The Divine Cut Diamond

The Divine Cut is a proprietary faceting pattern developed and patented by Bez Ambar. Understanding what it does differently from standard brilliant cutting explains why it produces a distinct visual result.

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The round brilliant cut has been the dominant diamond cutting paradigm since Marcel Tolkowsky published his mathematical analysis of light behavior in diamond in 1919. His proportions, refined over the following decades, became the basis for what GIA now grades as Excellent cut. The round brilliant as we know it today is a highly optimized system: 57 or 58 facets arranged to maximize light return and scintillation within a circular outline.

For most of the 20th century, innovation in diamond cutting focused on optimizing the existing brilliant facet arrangement, not on departing from it. The Divine Cut represents a departure: a different facet geometry, protected by patent, that produces a distinct light pattern and visual character.

What Makes

the Divine Cut Different

The standard round brilliant uses a specific facet arrangement: a table, 8 bezel facets, 8 star facets, and 16 upper-girdle facets on the crown, with a culet, 8 pavilion main facets, and 16 lower-girdle facets on the pavilion. The proportions of these facets, particularly the table size, crown angle, and pavilion depth, determine the stone’s light behavior.

The Divine Cut modifies the facet architecture rather than adjusting proportions within the standard arrangement. The result is a stone that produces a different light pattern when viewed face-up: where a standard brilliant generates a characteristic pinwheel or arrowhead pattern of light and shadow (called the “hearts and arrows” pattern in ideal-cut stones), the Divine Cut generates its own signature pattern. This pattern is not better or worse in an absolute sense — it is a different aesthetic expression of light behavior.

The key change is in how the Divine Cut facets interact with incoming light at different viewing angles. As the stone moves, the flash patterns shift differently than they would in a standard brilliant of the same proportions. The effect is particularly noticeable in motion and under directional light.

Patent

as Design Protection

A utility or design patent on a diamond cut protects the specific facet arrangement and geometry from reproduction by other cutters without authorization. The patent does not affect the material (the diamond is the same) but protects the intellectual property in the cut’s design.

For the buyer, a patented cut means that the design was formally assessed as novel and non-obvious by the patent office — that it represents a genuine departure from prior cutting practice rather than a minor variation on established forms. It also means that only authorized cutters can produce that specific design, which maintains consistency in the product across pieces.

Bez Ambar’s ability to offer the Divine Cut in finished rings and jewelry is a function of that proprietary position: the cut is available through Bez Ambar designs, not through commodity diamond trading.

The Divine Cut

in a Ring Setting

How a cut performs in isolation on a light table is one measure. How it performs in a finished ring setting, worn on the hand and seen in variable lighting conditions, is the relevant one.

The Divine Cut’s modified facet pattern means its flash characteristics shift differently as the wearer’s hand moves. This produces a dynamic quality to the stone’s appearance in daily wear: different angles and light conditions reveal different aspects of the stone’s light behavior.

In settings with accent stones, the center stone’s proprietary faceting creates a deliberate contrast with any round brilliant accent diamonds around it. The two facet architectures produce different visual signatures, and their interaction in a halo or pavé setting creates a layered light effect.

Choosing

a Proprietary Cut

For buyers drawn to the Divine Cut, the decision involves two considerations: the visual quality of the specific stone being considered, and the appeal of the cut’s distinctive character relative to the round brilliant default.

GIA does not issue a cut grade for non-round and proprietary cuts in the same way it does for round brilliants. A GIA report on a Divine Cut diamond will include color, clarity, and carat weight, but the cut evaluation will differ from the straightforward Excellent/Very Good/Good scale applied to standard rounds. The buyer relies more heavily on direct visual evaluation of the specific stone.

The best approach is to view the stone in multiple lighting environments: under the directional light typical of jewelry stores, under the diffuse light of overcast outdoor conditions, and under the mixed light of indoor rooms. A stone that performs across all three is a well-cut stone regardless of the specific facet architecture.

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What People

Ask Us

What is the Divine Cut diamond? The Divine Cut is a proprietary diamond faceting pattern developed and patented by Bez Ambar. It differs from the standard round brilliant in its specific facet geometry, producing a distinct light behavior and visual pattern when the stone is viewed face-up or in motion. It is available through Bez Ambar jewelry designs.

Does a GIA certificate look different for a Divine Cut stone? Yes. GIA provides color, clarity, and carat weight for all certified diamonds, but the cut evaluation section differs for proprietary and non-standard cuts versus standard round brilliants. A round brilliant receives a formal cut grade (Excellent through Poor); a proprietary cut receives a different notation. The material quality of the stone (color and clarity) is graded identically.

Is the Divine Cut available in shapes other than round? The Divine Cut’s proprietary facet pattern applies to a round outline. Other shapes — ovals, cushions, pears — use different facet architectures and are not the same design. Contact Bez Ambar directly to discuss available shapes and which proprietary designs apply.

How does the Divine Cut compare to a standard round brilliant? Neither is objectively superior. A top-quality standard round brilliant with an Excellent GIA cut grade is a superbly optimized stone. The Divine Cut produces a different aesthetic — a different pattern of flashes and a different dynamic behavior — rather than more light return in an absolute sense. The choice is an aesthetic preference.

Can the Divine Cut be purchased as a loose stone? Through Bez Ambar, yes. The stone is then set in a ring, earrings, or pendant of your choice. Contact us to discuss current inventory and setting options.