Bez Ambar

Diamonds

Are Diamonds a Good Investment? An Honest Assessment

Bez Ambar · September 10, 2020

Diamonds as investment, Bez Ambar

A fancy-colored diamond sold at Sotheby’s Geneva is not the same category of asset as the round brilliant in your engagement ring — and conflating the two leads to expensive disappointment.


The Hard Truth

Most Retail Diamonds Lose Value Immediately

Walk out of any jewelry store with a one-carat round brilliant and try to sell it the next morning. You will recover somewhere between forty and sixty cents on every dollar you spent. The spread between retail and wholesale is structural, not accidental. Dealers buy at wholesale and sell at retail. When you buy at retail, you start in a hole.

That is not a scandal — it is how every luxury goods market works. The difference is that diamonds carry a mythology of value retention that most other luxury goods do not. A Chanel jacket does not claim to be an investment. A diamond, marketed since the 1940s with the phrase “a diamond is forever,” carries an implied promise that the industry has never fully backed up with data.

The first thing any serious buyer must do is separate the question of personal meaning from the question of financial return. A diamond can be the right choice for an engagement ring, an heirloom, a piece of wearable art — and still be a poor financial instrument. Those two things coexist without contradiction.

What Moves Price

Cut Quality and Rarity Create Long-Term Value

Among colorless diamonds, the variables that hold value best over time are rarity and cut quality. A three-carat D-Flawless round brilliant with GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certification is a rare object. There are not many of them, demand among a narrow group of buyers stays consistent, and the stone is objectively gradeable — you can compare it to another stone with precision. That specificity matters when you try to resell.

Cut quality matters because it is the one variable that separates a stone that looks alive from one that looks like glass. A superbly cut stone holds its desirability over decades. A poorly cut stone in the same color and clarity grade trades at a meaningful discount.

What does not hold value well: commercial-grade one-carat rounds in the G–H, VS1–VS2 range, regardless of what you paid. That segment is a commodity. Supply is plentiful, thousands of stones match the grade, and price is set at the margin by global diamond production, not by your particular stone.

Baguette and halo diamond ring demonstrating fine gem setting craftsmanship

The Exception

Fancy-Colored Diamonds Behave Differently

Fancy-colored diamonds — natural pinks, blues, greens, and reds — occupy a genuinely different market. The supply of natural fancy-colored diamonds contracted sharply when the Argyle mine in Western Australia closed in 2020 after producing the majority of the world’s natural pink diamonds. Blue and green diamonds of significant size come to market perhaps a handful of times per year globally.

These stones have demonstrated price appreciation over multi-decade periods. They are not liquid — you cannot call a broker and sell tomorrow — but patient sellers have extracted meaningful returns. The caveat is capital requirement. Entry into investment-grade fancy-colored stones starts in the hundreds of thousands of dollars and quickly reaches the millions.

For the buyer working with a more modest budget, the honest answer is this: buy a diamond because you love it, because it will be worn and cherished and passed down, not because you expect it to outperform the stock market. Approached that way, the question of return becomes secondary to the question of quality — and choosing quality, at the right price, is always the right answer.

Working the Numbers

What Price Benchmarks Actually Tell You

The Rapaport Report — known in the trade as “the Rap” — publishes weekly price grids for colorless diamonds by shape, weight, color, and clarity. It is a wholesale benchmark, not a retail price list. When dealers negotiate, they trade at discounts or premiums to Rap. Understanding where a stone’s asking price sits relative to Rap gives you signal about whether you are paying a fair price.

For fancy-colored diamonds, no equivalent universal benchmark exists. Price discovery happens at auction, in private treaty sales, and through specialized brokers. That opacity is part of why fancy-colored stones reward buyers who do their homework and work with dealers who have genuine experience in that market.

A final point: certification matters absolutely. A GIA certificate on a colorless stone confirms the grade. For fancy-colored diamonds, both the GIA and the Gübelin Gem Lab in Lucerne are the accepted authorities. Any stone offered as an investment without third-party certification from one of these labs should be declined, full stop.


What People

Ask Us

Are lab-grown diamonds a good investment?

Lab-grown diamonds are not investment vehicles by any reasonable definition. Prices have fallen sixty to seventy percent over the past three years as production has scaled, and there is no structural floor — manufacturers can produce more. If you want a beautiful stone at a lower price point, lab-grown has real advantages. If you are thinking about resale value, the answer is no.

What carat weight is large enough to hold value?

Among colorless diamonds, stones above two carats in high color and clarity grades hold up better than commercial-grade smaller stones — but “hold value” still means something different from “appreciate in value.” The market for exceptional stones is narrower but more consistent. Below one carat in standard grades, you are in full commodity territory.

Does the setting affect resale value?

The setting has almost no bearing on resale value of the diamond. Buyers purchasing a loose stone are buying the stone, not the metalwork. Custom settings are worth what the metal is worth at melt, minus the dealer’s cost to remove the stone — which is to say, very little. Separate your love for a setting from any financial calculus around the stone.

How do auction results translate to what I should pay?

Hammer prices at Christie’s or Sotheby’s reflect the best available buyers for the best available stones on a specific day. They are data points, not floor prices. Buyer’s premiums at major auction houses add fifteen to twenty-five percent on top of the hammer price, which means the effective price paid is substantially higher than the number reported in headlines.

Is a GIA certificate the only one worth having?

GIA is the global standard for colorless diamonds, and it is the one most resale buyers require. AGS (American Gem Society) grading is also well respected and uses a slightly different cut-grading methodology that some buyers prefer. For fancy-colored diamonds, GIA and Gübelin are the only labs whose color origin and grade determinations carry full weight in the high-value market.


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