“I have recently heard something about a quadrillion diamond. I have tried to research them but have only seen limited information. I would like to know what are their specifications and how are they different from the princess cut? ”
This is one of the many questions we often get from confused consumers.
I am Bez Ambar and I am the Co-inventor of the original Princess/Quadrillion cut diamond.
There is a lot of confusing and misleading information about the Quadrillion and Princess cuts on the internet, that’s why it is important for me to tell my story.
The Inspiration Behind The Invention
Since the early 1900’s, there has been a growth in production of elaborate diamond cuts that have been developed by master gem cutters, mathematicians, scientists, and entrepreneurs – each trying to improve on the old European cuts and their modest brilliance and light return.
Each innovator had his own reason for attempting to develop a new cut or to modify an existing one. My own journey to develop the Princess was inspired by two things:
1) The development of the brilliant Radiant cut in 1977; and
2) The popularity of the channel setting.
Let me explain how these two facts relate to my invention.
The Radiant cut was developed by Henry Grossbard. He created a hybrid cut when he used a combination of the not so brilliant step cut diamonds with the multi-faceted cut of brilliant diamonds. This was a revolutionary concept back in 1977. It was the first time that a square cut diamond was as brilliant as a round diamond.
Channel setting was very popular at the time and I was frustrated that the round and square cut corner diamonds could not be set that way without leaving a gap between the stones.
I set my mind to develop a new diamond cut. I wanted a cut that maximized the beauty of the stone without having the cut corners. I knew that the 90% corners will allow me to set stones flush one next to the other without leaving any gaps, creating a new look of unbroken brilliance. I later developed a new method of setting the new square diamonds seamlessly side by side without using prongs. In 1988 I created the first piece of diamond jewelry that didn’t have a metal border or prongs. It was coined Invisible Setting. The invisible setting allowed me to set several rows of Quadrillion/Princess diamonds next to one another without any metal between them.
To develop the new cut, I recruited the help of my father in law, Ygal Perlman, who was an expert at cutting and polishing rough diamonds. I ambitiously delved into the science of diamond optics with enthusiasm and anticipation. After months of extensive optical research and countless experiments with different ways of cutting, we came up with a new square cut that was brilliant and had straight corners! We named this cut Princess
I wanted to distribute the new cut under the trademark Princess but found out it was already taken. I decided to name it Quadrillion and distribute it under this new trademark name.
Facet Arrangements of Princess / Quadrillion Cut Diamonds
A Revolutionary Concept
The Quadrillion diamond is a square brilliant stone with 49 facets. It is always cut in ideal proportions to maximize the brilliance of the stone (not to maximize weight retention.) It’s revolutionary concept is that Unlike any other cut before it, the Quadrillion lower-pavilion facets are widening towards the culet not narrowing like in all other cuts; the narrowing on a Quadrillion is toward the corners. The unique facet arrangement creates a star-like effect on the crown. The cut’s brilliant-style faceting minimizes light leakage and allows for the greatest amount of light to be reflected from the pavilion.
ATW Ring – 1985 De Beers Award Winner
I was distributing my jewelry designs with the stamp Quadrillion and a certificate of authenticity. Since no one could use the trademark name Quadrillion, the manufacturers in Israel kept using the name Princess and the polished stones were sold in the Israeli Diamond Exchange as Princess cut diamonds.
In 1985, I Won the De-Beers awardATW Quadrillion ring and the cut’s popularity sky rocketed. With it’s popularity, came a flood of imitations of my designs and many designers began to create their own designs using the cut.
Over the years, many more variations of the Princess cut were developed, mostly the results of attempts to cut the stone with the intention to retain the maximum amount of weight from the rough. All of those stones have more than 49 facets and do not retain the same brilliance.
So what is the difference between Quadrillion and Princess cuts?
Originally, they were the same and Ambar Diamonds distributed the Princess under the trademark name Quadrillion.
All other variations of the cut are modifications of the original Princess cut and most of them do not have the ideal and original proportions.
More about those innovations in later posts…