Betzalel "Bez" Ambar (born October 4, 1955 in Israel), is an American jewelry designer who came to claim worldwide recognition in 1982 with the invention of the Quadrillion® cut, better known as the Princess cut. Today he owns and operates the high-end fine jewelry business in Los Angeles, California, Bez Ambar Inc. Over the years he has made huge footprints in the jewelry design industry with his innovations in diamond cutting and setting.

Career

Bez Ambar moved to Los Angeles and founded Ambar Diamonds, Inc in 1979. Two years he later unveiled an invention 5 years in the making, the Princess cut diamond under the trademark Quadrillion®.

Initially created as a diamond distribution business utilizing Bez's connections at the Israel Diamond Exchange, the business quickly began to focus on jewelry design and distribution after creating a sample ring to market Bez's new Quadrillion. It was so well received, Ambar Diamonds went on to become renowned jewelry design company.

1985 was a year of fame and popularity for Ambar Diamonds when the ATW Quadrillion ring was chosen to receive the DeBeers Award.

3 years later, Bez Ambar once again stepped into the lime-light with the creation of his invisible setting, a rimless and prong-less setting, for square cut diamonds.

In 1992, Bez brought to the market a variant of his invisible setting, the “Boundless”, a rimless, prong-less setting, for round diamonds.

The year 1999 saw Ambar’s innovation of the Pavé setting in what we have come to know as the Micro-Pavé setting.

He then invented the Blaze® cut diamond in 2003 and most recently the round Divine Cut in 2015. These cuts feature fewer facets to maximize on the color dispersion aspect of diamonds called fire.


Famous Jewelry

ATW Ring

In 1985, Bez Ambar’s ATW Quadrillion ring won the De Beers award for its innovation and ingenuity.
bez ambar atw ring

Rainbow Necklace

Ambar’s Rainbow Necklace is an ensemble of most beautiful fancy color diamonds and Bez Ambar’s patented Blaze® cut diamonds woven into a spread-out Riviera neck piece. The piece commissioned by L.J West Diamonds was one of the rarest of the featured collections on display as part of "Diamonds: Rare Brilliance" at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County.

bez ambar lj west rainbow necklace

Millennium Necklace

Put together by using 1000 of his Quadrillion® cut diamonds, the Millennium was created to celebrate the coming of the new millennium (2001). The necklace was created using Bez Ambar’s invisible setting to seamlessly set 4 rows of his patented Quadrillion® cut diamonds.

bez ambar millennium necklace

Diamond Cuts

Quadrillion® Cut

bez ambar quadrillion cut diamond

In 1982, Bez Ambar released the Quadrillion cut, also known as the Princess cut. Before the princess cut, most square cut diamond shapes were truncated because the 90 degree corners were a weakness in the overall brilliance of the stone. Bez, along with partners Israel Itzkowitz and Ygal Perlman, created a 49 facet square cut designed to maximize brilliance without having its corners cut. Most Princess cut diamonds sold today differ from Bez's original Quadrillion design in that they are mostly cut for weight retention rather than as ideal cuts.

Blaze® Cut

bez ambar blaze cut diamond

In 2003, Bez Ambar unveiled the Blaze® cut. The most distinctive feature of this new cut are the burst of colors it produces through its 9 crown (top) facets. The Blaze cut is a square cut diamond with 13 facets; 9 crown facets and 4 pavilion. There are 3 properties in a diamond that make it one of the most highly sought after gemstones; brilliance, scintillation, and dispersion, otherwise known as fire. Bez designed the Blaze cut to maximize a diamond's dispersion. Bez Ambar believes that the most beautiful property of a diamond is its ability diffuse white light into the multitude of colors that make up the visible spectrum. The larger facets of the Blaze® cut create a greater opportunity for the light to be broken up and therefore dispersers a fire 10 times larger than any other cut of the same size.

Divine® Cut

bez ambar divine cut

Unveiled in 2015, the Divine® Cut is Ambar’s latest creation. Like his previous cut, Ambar was awarded an international design patent, for the Divine® cut. After his previous accomplishments in square diamond cuts, Bez shifted his attention to round cuts with the aspiration to recreate the fire and beauty of a Blaze Cut in a round shape. The traditional round brilliant cut has 58 facets, while the divine cut has only 46, 22 crown facets and 24 lower pavilion facets. With this decrease of facets on the crown comes an increase in the size of Fire.


Diamond Settings

In 1988 Bez Ambar created the invisible setting for square cut diamonds. The idea came from the designer’s ambition to set diamonds without showing any of the metal that would traditionally interrupt the continuity of a piece’s brilliance. To make sure that no metal shows, Ambar created a petite and delicate groove under the girdle of the diamond with a laser and microscope to maintain his well-known precision. Using these groves Bez could hide any metal that would be seen in the more traditional settings.

Boundless®

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In 1992, Bez Ambar invented and patented the "Boundless" setting. The "Boundless" setting allowed for invisibly set round diamonds. Using a technique similar to his invisible setting for square stones, Bez was able to omit the prongs or rims used to set round stones.

Micro-Pavé

In 1999, Bez Ambar revolutionized the jewelry design industry by using nearly microscopic stones in his Pavé settings, utilizing a microscope to be extremely precise. This is known today as the Micro-Pavé setting. This style of setting makes it possible graft thousands of tiny stones on one piece.