Bez Ambar Inventions
When it comes to diamonds, cut is arguably the most important C in the famous 4C’s (cut, color, clarity, and carat weight) as its precision determines the stone’s brilliance.
In a fiercely competitive market, it’s hardly surprising that jewelers are increasingly looking to stand out from the rest with branded cuts that are exclusive to them.
The vision of every artist is to create something innovative that defines his aesthetic. Bez Ambar is the only jewelry designer that can claim to his credit the invention of three design patented diamond cuts. His innovations have broken the mold of traditional jewelry shaping and setting.
Those who follow Bez Ambar’s career are familiar with the Quadrillion/Princess cut diamond, which revolutionized the diamond industry and today is the second most popular diamond cut after the round brilliant.
His second diamond cut invention is the Blaze cut with its amazing sparkle or scintillation which is the dispersion of color flashes of light seen when the diamond is viewed in motion. The Blaze has 10 times more Fire than any other cut.
Bez Ambar’s third and latest invention is the Divine Cut. The Divine diamond is protected from plagiarism by an international design patent. This patent was granted due to the unique visual qualities of the diamond and it’s distinct, surface design pattern. This new cut embodies Bez Ambar’s vision to translate the beauty and fire of the Blaze into a round shape diamond, transforming it into a more powerful gemstone.
After many calculations, computer models and a lot of practice cutting, the new diamond was born.
The Divine cut is a revolutionary departure from the look of the classic round brilliant diamond. Take a one carat Divine cut and a one carat traditional round cut diamond, both with the same color and clarity, expose both of them to the same light source and you will notice, with a naked eye, three differences between the two.
1. The Divine cut has more sparkle than the traditional round.
2. It looks bigger than the traditional round.
3. A lower-grade color round brilliant stone cut into a Divine can look as much as two color grades higher than the original round brilliant stone.
To understand the differences between the two cuts, we must look at their respective specifications.
Unmodified Round Brilliant Cut Diamond
The modern round brilliant consists of 58 facets (or 57 if the culet is excluded), ordinarily today cut in two pyramids placed base to base: 33 on the crown (the top half above the middle or girdle of the stone), truncated comparatively near its base by the table, and 25 on the pavilion (the lower half below the girdle), which has only the apex cut off to form the culet around which 8 extra facets are sometimes added. In 2005, GIA introduced a cut grading system for unmodified round brilliant cut diamonds. The name “unmodified round brilliant” was applied to a symmetrical round cut with a regular array of 58 facets, cut to modern standards. The system was the culmination of years of research that included the results of preference testing among a wide variety of groups, including trade professionals and consumers. GIA’s cut grading system was designed to assess the beauty and craftsmanship of modern round brilliant-cut diamonds. A high grade of the diamond is given when the proportions yield the best combination of brightness, fire, and scintillation.
This illustration shows some of the key proportion parameters that impact a round brilliant-cut diamond’s appearance. Illustration by Peter Johnston, © GIA
Divine cut Diamond
The total number of facets in the Divine cut is between 42-46. Smaller stones, up to 1.5 carats will have 42 facets. Larger stones will have a total of 46.
To maximize the amount of light reflection, the number of the crown’s facets fluctuate with the size. In small stones, the crown is cut into 18 facets. In large stones, it is divided into 22 facets. The pavilion of the Divine, it’s lower side, is alway cut into 24 facets exactly like the pavilion of the traditional round brilliant cut. However, the table is square and much smaller than in the Round Brilliant. Surrounding the table are eight same size square facets slightly angled toward the girdle of the stone. The angles of the crown’s facets create a slightly rounded parachute-like shape different than the more trapezoid-like shape of the round brilliant diamond. All nine center facets work together to multiply light reflection enhancing the brilliance of the stone. We believe that the Divne is the future of round diamonds.
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